Rome.
One More Night.
The Eternal City, without the rush. The Rome of long lunches, winding streets, one-more-glass evenings, and pasta so good it becomes a personality trait.
This isn't a race to check off every monument. It's an invitation to wander, eat ridiculously well, and discover the city between the landmarks.
THE ETERNAL CITY · ITALIA
Longer if you want to explore beyond the classics.
Comfortable shoes, long meals, and open afternoons.
Reserve the popular tables. Leave the rest flexible.
"Some cities are meant to be seen. Rome is meant to be lived in, even if only for a few days."
Find Your Rome
Rome is a collection of little worlds, each with its own personality. Pick a neighborhood, get wonderfully lost, and see where the afternoon takes you.
Trastevere
Cobblestone lanes, ivy-covered buildings, bustling trattorias and evenings that somehow turn into midnight.
EXPLORE TRASTEVERE ↗Monti
Vintage shops, independent boutiques, intimate wine bars and a neighborhood personality all its own.
EXPLORE MONTI ↗Centro Storico
The Pantheon, beautiful piazzas, tiny streets and the Rome you imagined before you arrived.
EXPLORE CENTRO STORICO ↗Testaccio
Old-school Roman cooking, local markets and a deliciously unpretentious side of the city.
EXPLORE TESTACCIO ↗Prati
Beautiful residential streets, neighborhood cafés, shopping, and an excellent base near the Vatican.
EXPLORE PRATI ↗Campo de' Fiori & Navona
Markets, charming piazzas, gelato stops, and the kind of wandering that doesn't require a destination.
EXPLORE THE HISTORIC LANES ↗Come Hungry. Leave Happy.
Pasta worth rearranging your day for, sandwiches bigger than your face, proper Roman trattorias and gelato because obviously.
These are the places from my Rome notes, with my starred standouts at the top. Filter by whatever you're craving.
This collection includes personal notes and curated recommendations. A few names require confirmation before publication. Restaurant hours, menus and reservation policies can change.
Three Days. Endless Possibilities.
Enough structure to make the most of Rome. Enough freedom to follow a beautiful street simply because you feel like it.
Do as the Romans Do.
A few little things that make Rome feel less like a vacation checklist and more like somewhere you belong.
Stand at the Bar
Order your espresso or cappuccino at the counter. It's quick, wonderfully Italian, and often cheaper than sitting at a table.
Know Your Classics
Carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana and gricia. The four Roman pasta classics deserve your attention. Yes, all four.
One More Glass
An aperitivo before dinner isn't an inconvenience to your schedule. It's part of the evening. Embrace it.
Take the Long Way
Some of Rome's best discoveries happen between destinations. Wear comfortable shoes and leave room for detours.
Book the Big Ones
Reserve popular attractions through their official ticketing websites. The Colosseum and Vatican Museums are not places to rely on luck.
Dinner Is an Occasion
Check reservation policies in advance. Some famous trattorias operate on a walk-in basis. Have a backup and don't let a queue ruin your night.
One More Night.
There's something about Italy that makes me want to stretch every day a little longer. Another walk. Another plate of pasta. Another glass of wine that turns into a conversation you weren't planning to have.
Rome can be loud, chaotic, ancient, romantic and completely wonderful. Sometimes all in the same ten minutes.
You don't need to conquer Rome. You just need to give yourself enough time to experience it.
And if your favorite memory ends up being a tiny restaurant you wandered into by accident? Even better.
With love, Brittany ♡Trastevere.
After Dark
Across the Tiber, Rome gets a little louder, a little livelier, and somehow even more romantic. Ivy climbs the buildings, cobblestone streets twist around tiny piazzas, and dinner has a funny way of becoming the entire evening.
By day, Trastevere is made for wandering. By night, it's one of the city's most atmospheric neighborhoods for a long Italian dinner, a glass of wine, and absolutely no plans to be home early.
TRASTEVERE · ROMA
Come earlier for quieter streets, stay for the atmosphere after dark.
Or an entire evening if you take dinner seriously. As you should.
Popular restaurants fill quickly. Some are walk-in only.
"In Trastevere, one more glass is practically a love language."
Where to Go in Trastevere
Roman pasta, crispy supplì, neighborhood cafés, wine bars and the little places that make you want to stay one more night.
Bar San Calisto
An old-school neighborhood institution where coffee comes without the fuss. Perfect for a quick espresso and a little people-watching.
THE OCCASION · A PROPER ROMAN COFFEE STOPLe Levain
A French-inspired bakery in Trastevere for beautiful pastries, coffee, and a slightly more leisurely start to the morning.
THE OCCASION · A SLOW BREAKFASTOtaleg!
A creative gelateria with inventive flavors. Because an afternoon walk through Trastevere deserves a gelato intermission.
THE OCCASION · AN AFTERNOON TREATDa Enzo al 29
One of Trastevere's best-known trattorias for traditional Roman cooking. Carbonara, artichokes, and a reputation that draws a serious queue.
THE OCCASION · THE PASTA YOU PLAN AROUNDDa Teo
A traditional Roman trattoria with a lovely neighborhood setting. Think classic pasta, Roman dishes, and the kind of lunch that deserves an extra hour.
THE OCCASION · A LONG ITALIAN LUNCHSupplì Roma
Crispy rice croquettes with a molten mozzarella center. The perfect little snack while wandering the neighborhood.
THE OCCASION · A QUICK ROMAN BITETrapizzino
A triangular pocket of pizza dough filled with traditional Roman dishes. Casual, delicious, and very much worth trying.
THE OCCASION · A QUICK DINNER OR SNACKTonnarello
A lively, popular trattoria known for hearty Roman pasta. Expect a bustling atmosphere and potentially a wait.
THE OCCASION · A LIVELY PASTA NIGHTOsteria der Belli
A family-run restaurant near Piazza Sant'Apollonia, known for its seafood-focused cooking and Sardinian influences.
THE OCCASION · SOMETHING BEYOND CARBONARAEnoteca Ferrara
An established wine destination in Trastevere with a substantial wine selection. A lovely option for a proper aperitivo.
THE OCCASION · ONE MORE GLASS OF WINEFreni e Frizioni
A lively cocktail bar near the river, popular for aperitivo and creative drinks. A great way to begin an evening out.
THE OCCASION · APERITIVO BEFORE DINNERMa Che Siete Venuti a Fà
A small, lively pub known for its craft beer selection. Perfect for something a little different from the usual Italian wine bar.
THE OCCASION · A CASUAL NIGHTCAPPiazza di Santa Maria
The heart of Trastevere, centered around its beautiful basilica and fountain. Come for the architecture, stay for the atmosphere.
THE OCCASION · THE CLASSIC TRASTEVERE MOMENTBasilica di Santa Maria
One of Rome's oldest churches, celebrated for its remarkable mosaics and beautiful interior. An essential stop while wandering the neighborhood.
THE OCCASION · A LITTLE ROMAN HISTORYGianicolo Hill
A scenic hill above Trastevere offering sweeping views over Rome's rooftops and domes. The uphill walk is worth allowing extra time for.
THE OCCASION · A ROMANTIC CITY VIEWVia della Lungaretta
One of Trastevere's characteristic streets, lined with restaurants, shops and beautiful old buildings. Best enjoyed without a strict plan.
THE OCCASION · GETTING BEAUTIFULLY LOSTNo recommendations in this category yet.
This neighborhood edit combines Brittany's original Rome notes with additional curated suggestions. Confirm current opening hours, reservations and seasonal operations before visiting.
Trastevere, After Dark
A beautiful evening in Rome, with absolutely no reason to hurry.
Get Lost in the Lanes
Start around Piazza di Santa Maria, explore the surrounding streets and enjoy the neighborhood before the dinner crowds arrive.
One More Glass
Stop at Enoteca Ferrara for wine or Freni e Frizioni for cocktails. This is your official permission to take your time.
Find Your Trattoria
Choose Da Enzo, Da Teo or another neighborhood restaurant. Check opening times and reservation policies before heading over.
Take the Long Way
Wander back through the illuminated piazzas. Maybe grab a gelato. Maybe find a little bar. Definitely don't rush.
Stay for One More Glass.
You know those evenings when you go out for dinner and somehow end up having one of the best nights of your entire trip?
That's the kind of evening Trastevere was made for.
Don't overplan it. Choose a restaurant, wear comfortable shoes, and leave the rest of the night open. The beauty of Rome is that sometimes the best part is what happens after your plans end.
With love, Brittany ♡Monti.
The Art of Getting Lost
Just a short walk from the Colosseum, Monti feels like a different little world. Cobblestone streets, independent boutiques, vintage treasures, tiny cafés and wine bars tucked into corners you might otherwise miss.
It's effortlessly cool without trying too hard. The kind of neighborhood where you go looking for coffee and accidentally spend the entire afternoon.
MONTI · ROMA
Start with coffee, browse the shops, stay for aperitivo.
Longer if you love vintage shopping and slow lunches.
Creative, intimate and wonderfully walkable.
"The best souvenir from Monti might just be an afternoon you never planned."
A Little Bit of Everything.
The coffee stops, Roman classics, wine bars, independent shops and beautiful little corners worth knowing about.
La Casetta a Monti
An ivy-covered little café that looks like it belongs in a storybook. Come for coffee, something sweet and the impossibly charming exterior.
THE OCCASION · A PICTURE-PERFECT COFFEE STOP OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Er Baretto
A neighborhood coffee stop for an espresso or cappuccino before wandering Monti's boutiques and little streets.
THE OCCASION · A QUICK MORNING ESPRESSO OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Fatamorgana
An artisan gelato name known for creative flavors and interesting combinations. A sweet little reward after an afternoon of shopping.
THE OCCASION · A GELATO INTERMISSION OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗La Carbonara
One of the restaurants that earned a double star in my original Rome notes. A long-standing Monti institution for traditional Roman pasta. The kind of dinner worth building an evening around.
THE OCCASION · THE PASTA YOU CAME FOR OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
A family-run restaurant near the Roman Forum, known for traditional Italian cooking. A lovely option after a morning exploring ancient Rome.
THE OCCASION · A LONG POST-COLOSSEUM LUNCH OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Ai Tre Scalini
A Monti favorite for wine, small plates and a wonderfully lively atmosphere. An easy place to settle in for something delicious.
THE OCCASION · WINE & A FEW THINGS TO SHARE OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Alle Carrette
A casual Roman pizzeria for a relaxed meal. Exactly what you want when the afternoon has been all walking and exploring.
THE OCCASION · AN EASY PIZZA NIGHT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Trattoria Monti
A restaurant known for its Marche-influenced Italian cooking. A great option when you're ready to explore beyond the four classic Roman pastas.
THE OCCASION · A SPECIAL NEIGHBORHOOD DINNER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Ai Tre Scalini
A lively neighborhood wine bar where an afternoon aperitivo can easily become the beginning of dinner.
THE OCCASION · A CLASSIC MONTI APERITIVO OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗La Barrique
An intimate wine-focused restaurant and bar in Monti. A lovely option for a relaxed evening with a good glass of wine.
THE OCCASION · AN UNHURRIED GLASS OF WINE OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Blackmarket Hall
A moody, atmospheric cocktail bar with an eclectic interior. Perfect for a nightcap after a Monti dinner.
THE OCCASION · COCKTAILS AFTER DARK OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Piazza della Madonna dei Monti
The neighborhood's beloved gathering place, centered around a fountain. Grab a coffee, find a spot and watch Monti go by.
THE OCCASION · PEOPLE-WATCHING IN THE PIAZZA OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Via del Boschetto
One of Monti's most enjoyable streets for browsing independent boutiques, vintage shops and creative little storefronts.
THE OCCASION · FINDING SOMETHING UNEXPECTED OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Mercato Monti
A curated market known for vintage fashion, independent designers and unique finds. Check current dates and opening times.
THE OCCASION · A LITTLE TREASURE HUNT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
One of Rome's great basilicas, with an extraordinary interior and centuries of history. Worth including if your wandering takes you toward the Esquiline.
THE OCCASION · A BEAUTIFUL HISTORIC DETOUR OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Via dei Serpenti
A characteristic Monti street lined with cafés, shops and beautiful old buildings. One of those places where the walk itself is the experience.
THE OCCASION · THE PERFECT LITTLE DETOUR OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗This neighborhood collection includes Brittany's original Rome notes and additional curated recommendations. Confirm current opening hours, locations and reservation policies before visiting.
Four Hours in Monti.
A little shopping, a little wandering, a very good meal, and absolutely no need to check the time.
Start Slowly
Begin with coffee at La Casetta or Er Baretto. Take your time and enjoy a proper Italian morning.
Browse the Boutiques
Wander Via del Boschetto and the surrounding streets. Look for vintage shops, independent designers and little discoveries.
Make Time for Pasta
Consider La Carbonara or La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali. Check opening hours and reservation policies first.
Find the Piazza
Finish at Piazza della Madonna dei Monti. Stay for gelato or turn your afternoon into aperitivo hour.
Leave Room for the Unexpected.
Monti is a reminder that you don't need a packed itinerary to have an incredible day in Rome.
Sometimes the best thing you can do is pick a neighborhood, choose a coffee shop, and let the rest happen.
Find something beautiful in a little boutique. Order pasta because you're in Italy. Sit in the piazza for longer than you planned.
That's not wasting time. That's the whole point.
With love, Brittany ♡Centro Storico.
The Rome You Came For
There's a particular kind of magic in Rome's historic center. You turn a corner looking for coffee and suddenly you're standing in front of a building that's been there for nearly two thousand years. Completely normal. Just another Tuesday in Rome.
This is the city of magnificent piazzas, narrow cobblestone lanes, afternoon gelato, and dinner reservations you'll be thinking about long after you've gone home. See the famous sights, absolutely. Just don't forget to enjoy everything that happens between them.
CENTRO STORICO · ROMA
See the famous piazzas before the biggest crowds arrive.
More if you're visiting monuments and lingering over lunch.
The little streets between the landmarks are half the magic.
"In Rome, getting lost is sometimes the most beautiful part of knowing exactly where you are."
The Good Stuff, Obviously.
Historic cafés, unforgettable Roman pasta, proper pizza, gelato worth the detour, and the landmarks that make this city feel almost impossibly beautiful.
Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè
A legendary Roman coffee institution near the Pantheon. Order an espresso, stand at the counter, and embrace the fact that Italians have made a two-minute coffee break an art form.
THE OCCASION · YOUR MORNING ESPRESSO RITUAL OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Tazza d'Oro
Another beloved Roman coffee stop, just steps from the Pantheon. Perfect for an espresso or a refreshing granita di caffè when the weather is warm.
THE OCCASION · COFFEE BETWEEN THE LANDMARKS OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Frigidarium
A gelateria near Piazza Navona that made it onto my original Rome list. Consider the chocolate coating if you're feeling particularly committed to dessert. And honestly, why wouldn't you be?
THE OCCASION · GELATO AFTER EVERY MEAL OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Regoli Pasticceria
A historic pastry shop near Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Famous for traditional Italian pastries, especially maritozzi filled with cream. It's farther east than the Pantheon area, so save it for an Esquiline detour.
THE OCCASION · A VERY GOOD PASTRY DETOUR OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
A destination for excellent ingredients, Roman pasta, cured meats, cheese and wine. This is not the restaurant to leave to chance. Plan ahead, make a reservation, and arrive hungry.
THE OCCASION · A DINNER WORTH BOOKING AHEAD OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Osteria da Fortunata
Famous for its handmade pasta and lively atmosphere. A popular choice around Campo de' Fiori, especially if you love watching pasta being made by hand.
THE OCCASION · HANDMADE PASTA & A LIVELY LUNCH OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Antica Trattoria della Quercia
A traditional restaurant tucked into the historic streets near Piazza Navona. A lovely option for a proper Italian meal without leaving the neighborhood.
THE OCCASION · A CLASSIC ROMAN DINNER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Ditirambo
An atmospheric restaurant near Campo de' Fiori, ideal for sitting down to a proper meal after an afternoon wandering the historic center.
THE OCCASION · A LONG, LEISURELY DINNER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Ar Galletto
A traditional restaurant right around Campo de' Fiori. Consider it for a relaxed meal before exploring the neighborhood's evening atmosphere.
THE OCCASION · A MEAL NEAR THE PIAZZA OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗All'Antico Vinaio
Big, generously filled schiacciata sandwiches. Perfect for when you want something delicious without committing to a two-hour lunch.
THE OCCASION · LUNCH ON THE GO OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Jerry Thomas Speakeasy
A celebrated Roman cocktail destination with a speakeasy atmosphere. Check its current booking requirements and entry arrangements before planning your visit.
THE OCCASION · A SPECIAL NIGHT OUT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Il Goccetto
A much-loved wine bar with an old-world atmosphere. Ideal for a glass of Italian wine and a slower moment between sightseeing and dinner.
THE OCCASION · A PROPER ITALIAN APERITIVO OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Cul de Sac
A long-established wine bar near Piazza Navona. A wonderful option for wine, small plates and a little people-watching.
THE OCCASION · ONE MORE GLASS OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗The Pantheon
One of the most extraordinary buildings in Rome. Step inside and look up at that remarkable dome and its open oculus. Check official ticket information before visiting.
THE OCCASION · THE ROME YOU DREAMED ABOUT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Piazza Navona
One of Rome's most beautiful squares, with Baroque fountains, grand architecture and an atmosphere that makes you want to sit down and stay a while.
THE OCCASION · A POSTCARD-PERFECT AFTERNOON OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Trevi Fountain
Yes, it's famous. Yes, it's crowded. And yes, it's still worth seeing. Visit early if you want a quieter experience, and check current access arrangements.
THE OCCASION · A LITTLE ROMAN WISH OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Campo de' Fiori
A lively piazza known for its market tradition, restaurants and evening energy. A wonderful neighborhood to explore on foot.
THE OCCASION · MARKET MORNING OR EVENING WANDER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Via dei Coronari
A gorgeous historic street lined with beautiful buildings and little shops. One of those places where the destination is simply the walk itself.
THE OCCASION · A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE DETOUR OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗This collection combines Brittany's original Rome restaurant notes with additional curated suggestions. Some stops are in the broader historic center or nearby districts. Check current opening hours, reservation policies and ticket requirements.
A Roman Holiday.
An easy, beautiful route through the historic center, with excellent food and absolutely no unnecessary rushing.
Start at the Pantheon
Enjoy the Pantheon area before the busiest part of the day. Stop at Sant'Eustachio or Tazza d'Oro for coffee.
Wander to Piazza Navona
Explore the square, then stroll along Via dei Coronari. Stop whenever something catches your eye.
Make Time for Pasta
Choose a restaurant near Campo de' Fiori. Roscioli, Ditirambo or Osteria da Fortunata are options from the guide. Book ahead where possible.
Gelato at Frigidarium
Because a proper Roman afternoon deserves a gelato break. Take the long way back through the historic streets.
Aperitivo, Anyone?
Finish at Il Goccetto or Cul de Sac for a glass of wine. If you're not ready to leave, don't. You're in Rome.
Fall in Love with the In-Between.
I love the famous landmarks. I really do. But there's something about the streets between them that makes Italy feel so special.
The little restaurant you didn't plan to visit. The beautiful doorway. The afternoon espresso. The street you take because it looks prettier than the one on your map.
See the Pantheon. Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain if you want to. Eat the pasta.
Just leave enough time for the moments you couldn't possibly have planned.
With love, Brittany ♡Testaccio.
Rome, Served Properly
If you want to understand Rome, start at the table. And if you want to understand the Roman table, come to Testaccio.
This is the Rome of neighborhood markets, traditional trattorias, generations-old recipes, and meals that aren't trying to impress anyone. They don't need to.
Come hungry. Wear comfortable shoes. And whatever you do, don't make lunch an afterthought.
TESTACCIO · ROMA
Visit the market while it's active, then settle in for a proper meal.
More if you're combining the neighborhood with nearby sights.
Traditional food, neighborhood character and no unnecessary fuss.
"Some of Rome's best stories aren't written in guidebooks. They're served for lunch."
Let's Talk About Food.
Traditional Roman pasta, neighborhood trattorias, market stalls, coffee stops and a few places worth exploring between meals.
Bar Barberini
A neighborhood pastry and coffee stop in Testaccio. A lovely way to start your morning before exploring the market.
THE OCCASION · A PROPER ITALIAN BREAKFAST OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Linari
A long-established neighborhood pastry shop known for traditional Italian sweets and baked goods. The sort of place that makes a morning coffee feel like a little ritual.
THE OCCASION · SOMETHING SWEET WITH COFFEE OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Giolitti Testaccio
A neighborhood gelato stop to consider after lunch. Check the exact location and current operation before visiting.
THE OCCASION · THE POST-LUNCH GELATO OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Trattoria Dar Cordaro
One of the restaurants that earned a star in my original Rome notes. A traditional Roman trattoria in Testaccio, where classic cooking is very much the point.
THE OCCASION · A CLASSIC ROMAN LUNCH OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Flavio al Velavevodetto
A well-known Testaccio restaurant serving classic Roman dishes, including the city's beloved pastas. An excellent place to understand why Roman cuisine has such a following.
THE OCCASION · A SERIOUSLY GOOD PASTA LUNCH OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Felice a Testaccio
One of the neighborhood's best-known restaurants, celebrated for its traditional Roman dishes and particularly its cacio e pepe.
THE OCCASION · THE CACIO E PEPE MOMENT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Mordi e Vai
A celebrated market stall known for sandwiches filled with traditional Roman preparations. A brilliant choice when you want something quick but full of local flavor.
THE OCCASION · A MARKET LUNCH OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Da Remo
A classic Testaccio pizzeria known for thin Roman-style pizza and an energetic, wonderfully casual atmosphere.
THE OCCASION · A NO-FUSS PIZZA NIGHT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Perilli
A long-standing Testaccio institution associated with traditional Roman cooking. An atmospheric option for a proper sit-down meal.
THE OCCASION · OLD-SCHOOL ROMAN DINING OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Enoteca Palombi
A neighborhood wine shop and bar for discovering Italian bottles and enjoying a relaxed glass. A lovely stop when lunch turns into aperitivo.
THE OCCASION · A NEIGHBORHOOD GLASS OF WINE OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Oasi della Birra
A Testaccio beer and wine destination with a relaxed neighborhood atmosphere. A fun alternative when you're ready for something other than wine.
THE OCCASION · AN EASY AFTERNOON DRINK OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Rec23
A contemporary restaurant and bar around Piazza dell'Emporio, suitable for drinks and a more modern neighborhood atmosphere.
THE OCCASION · AN APERITIVO STOP OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Mercato Testaccio
A modern covered market with produce stalls, specialty food vendors and excellent casual eating options. An essential stop for food lovers.
THE OCCASION · A PROPER MARKET MORNING OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Monte Testaccio
An ancient artificial mound built from discarded Roman amphora fragments. A fascinating reminder of the area's historic role in Rome's trade and food supply. Access may be restricted.
THE OCCASION · A LITTLE UNEXPECTED HISTORY OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Mattatoio
A former slaughterhouse complex repurposed for contemporary art and cultural programming. Check the current exhibition calendar before visiting.
THE OCCASION · AN ARTISTIC AFTERNOON OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Pyramid of Cestius
Yes, there's an ancient pyramid in Rome. This remarkable Roman tomb sits just beyond Testaccio near Porta San Paolo and makes for a fascinating neighborhood detour.
THE OCCASION · SOMETHING UNEXPECTEDLY ROMAN OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗This collection combines Brittany's original Rome notes with additional curated suggestions. Check current opening hours, restaurant availability, and visitor access before planning your day.
A Very Roman Morning.
The perfect little Testaccio itinerary: coffee, a neighborhood market, Roman history and a lunch worth making time for.
Start Like a Local
Begin with espresso and a pastry at Linari or another neighborhood coffee bar.
Explore Mercato Testaccio
Browse the produce and specialty stalls. Stop at Mordi e Vai if you want a quick taste of Roman street food. Check the market's operating days.
Take the Scenic Route
Walk around Testaccio and explore the area's history. Consider a detour toward Monte Testaccio or Mattatoio.
Lunch, Properly
Choose Dar Cordaro, Felice or Flavio for a traditional Roman lunch. Check reservations and opening hours before you go.
Finish with a Glass
If you're still in the neighborhood, enjoy a relaxed drink or continue wandering toward the Pyramid of Cestius.
Know Your Roman Classics.
You can't come to Rome and not talk about the pasta. These are the four dishes worth knowing before you sit down.
Carbonara
Pasta with egg, Pecorino Romano, guanciale and black pepper. No cream required.
Cacio e Pepe
Pecorino Romano, black pepper and pasta. Simple ingredients, serious technique.
Amatriciana
Tomato, guanciale, Pecorino Romano and pasta. Rich, savory and wonderfully Roman.
Gricia
Guanciale, Pecorino Romano and black pepper. Think of it as carbonara's delicious egg-free cousin.
The Best Things Take Time.
There's something I love about the way food is woven into everyday life in Italy.
Lunch isn't just a quick stop between activities. It's a reason to sit down, slow down and enjoy exactly where you are.
And Testaccio feels like the perfect place to remember that.
So order the pasta. Have the extra glass of wine if you want it. And please, for the love of Italy, don't rush through lunch.
With love, Brittany ♡Prati.
The Elegant Side of Rome
Just beyond the Vatican, Prati offers a different rhythm of Rome. Wide boulevards, beautiful architecture, independent shops, neighborhood restaurants, and cafés where you can actually hear yourself think.
It's elegant without being intimidating, residential without being boring, and a lovely place to spend an afternoon when you're ready for a little break from the crowds.
Come for the Vatican. Stay for everything else.
PRATI · ROMA
Explore after an early Vatican visit or spend a relaxed afternoon here.
Longer if you're visiting the Vatican Museums or St. Peter's Basilica.
Beautiful streets, local cafés, shopping and slower moments.
"Not every beautiful moment in Rome needs a monument in the background."
A More Leisurely Rome.
Coffee shops, excellent neighborhood restaurants, aperitivo stops, shopping streets and a few of Rome's most extraordinary landmarks.
Sciascia Caffè 1919
A historic Roman café with beautiful old-world character. An excellent choice for espresso, especially if you enjoy coffee served with a little ceremony.
THE OCCASION · A PROPER ROMAN COFFEE BREAK OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Gelateria dei Gracchi
A respected Roman gelateria known for artisan gelato and carefully chosen ingredients. A perfect stop after shopping along Via Cola di Rienzo.
THE OCCASION · AN AFTERNOON GELATO BREAK OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Pompi
A Roman name associated with tiramisù and sweet treats. Check the most convenient current location before planning your visit.
THE OCCASION · SOMETHING SWEET, OBVIOUSLY OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Il Sorpasso
A lively neighborhood restaurant and wine bar known for its relaxed atmosphere, Italian dishes and aperitivo appeal. A great option for a long lunch or early evening meal.
THE OCCASION · A LONG LUNCH THAT BECOMES DINNER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Pizzarium Bonci
One of Rome's best-known pizza al taglio destinations, famous for creative toppings and beautifully made pizza by the slice. It's near the Vatican Museums side of the area.
THE OCCASION · AN EXCELLENT QUICK LUNCH OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Osteria dell'Angelo
A traditional Roman restaurant with an old-school atmosphere. A good choice for a hearty meal after exploring the Vatican and surrounding streets.
THE OCCASION · TRADITIONAL ROMAN COMFORT FOOD OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Velavevodetto ai Quiriti
A Prati restaurant associated with classic Roman cooking. Consider it for a relaxed sit-down meal in the neighborhood.
THE OCCASION · A PROPER ROMAN DINNER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗La Zanzara
A stylish restaurant and bar near the Vatican, with a lively atmosphere and options for breakfast, lunch, dinner or drinks.
THE OCCASION · A LIVELY NEIGHBORHOOD MEAL OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Il Sorpasso
A wonderful option for an early evening glass of wine, small plates and a relaxed but lively neighborhood atmosphere.
THE OCCASION · APERITIVO AFTER SHOPPING OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗La Zanzara
A lively place to finish an afternoon in Prati with a cocktail or aperitivo. Especially convenient after exploring the Vatican side of Rome.
THE OCCASION · A WELL-EARNED SPRITZ OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Enoteca Costantini
A longstanding wine destination in Prati, known for its selection of Italian and international wines. Worth exploring if you love discovering a good bottle.
THE OCCASION · A LITTLE WINE DISCOVERY OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗St. Peter's Basilica
One of the most extraordinary churches in the world. Allow time to appreciate the architecture, art and remarkable scale of the space. Check visitor rules and dress requirements.
THE OCCASION · AN UNFORGETTABLE ROMAN MORNING OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Vatican Museums
Home to extraordinary collections of art, history and the Sistine Chapel. Reserve official tickets in advance and allow several hours for your visit.
THE OCCASION · A MORNING FULL OF MASTERPIECES OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Via Cola di Rienzo
One of Prati's main shopping streets, lined with fashion stores, cafés and beautiful architecture. Perfect for an unhurried afternoon of browsing.
THE OCCASION · A LITTLE ITALIAN SHOPPING OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Castel Sant'Angelo
Originally built as Hadrian's mausoleum, this remarkable fortress has centuries of Roman history. The surrounding river views are especially beautiful.
THE OCCASION · HISTORY WITH A VIEW OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Piazza Cavour
A grand square surrounded by elegant architecture and the impressive Palace of Justice. A lovely place to slow down and admire this side of the city.
THE OCCASION · A QUIETER ROMAN MOMENT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗This collection includes curated Prati recommendations and nearby Vatican City landmarks. Check current restaurant hours, ticket requirements, and reservation policies before visiting.
A Little Roman Elegance.
A relaxed Prati afternoon with beautiful streets, coffee, shopping and a well-deserved aperitivo.
Start at Sciascia
Begin with an espresso at Sciascia Caffè 1919. Enjoy the old-world atmosphere before setting off.
Wander Via Cola di Rienzo
Browse the shops and take your time exploring the surrounding streets.
Settle In for Something Good
Choose Il Sorpasso or Osteria dell'Angelo for a leisurely meal. Check current hours and availability.
Gelato at dei Gracchi
Make time for something sweet. A little gelato break is practically an Italian obligation.
Walk Toward the River
Wander toward Castel Sant'Angelo and the Tiber. Finish with a beautiful view or a glass of wine.
A Note on Vatican City.
Prati is a wonderful base for exploring the Vatican, but these visits deserve their own space in your itinerary.
Book the Museums
Vatican Museums tickets should be purchased through the official ticketing system. Popular dates can sell out.
Respect the Dress Code
Religious sites have clothing requirements. Plan for covered shoulders and knees when entering sacred spaces.
Don't Rush the Art
The museums are extensive. Allow several hours rather than trying to squeeze everything into a quick visit.
Explore Prati Afterward
Once you've finished sightseeing, enjoy a slower afternoon of coffee, shopping and a beautiful meal.
There Is Beauty in the Ordinary.
One of my favorite things about traveling is finding the parts of a city that feel like everyday life.
The morning coffee shop. The street people walk home on. The little restaurant where nobody seems particularly concerned about the time.
Rome is extraordinary because of its history, of course. But it's also extraordinary because people are living beautiful, ordinary lives right alongside it.
And sometimes, those are the moments I love the most.
With love, Brittany ♡Campo de' Fiori & Navona.
The Art of the Roman Afternoon
There's a certain hour in Rome when the sunlight turns golden, the piazzas begin filling with conversation, and the only thing on your agenda should be deciding where to have your next glass of wine.
Campo de' Fiori and Piazza Navona are two of my favorite kinds of places to explore: beautiful, full of life, and connected by a maze of streets that practically beg you to get lost.
Come in the morning for the market. Stay for lunch. Wander without a plan. And whatever you do, don't rush the best part of the day.
CAMPO DE' FIORI · NAVONA
Market browsing early, long lunches, and a beautiful evening atmosphere.
More if you're committed to doing absolutely nothing in a hurry.
The streets connecting these two piazzas are part of the experience.
"Some afternoons are too beautiful to fill with plans."
Stay a Little Longer.
From morning markets to late-night wine bars, these are the places and little rituals worth building an afternoon around.
Barnum Roma
A stylish café near Campo de' Fiori, known for specialty coffee and breakfast. A lovely place to begin your morning before wandering the surrounding streets.
THE OCCASION · A SLOW MORNING OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Frigidarium
A little gelato stop near Piazza Navona that's already earned a place in the Rome Little Black Book. Because you should absolutely have dessert before dinner if the opportunity presents itself.
THE OCCASION · THE AFTERNOON GELATO OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Caffè della Pace
A storied café address near Piazza Navona. Its historic reputation makes it a beautiful part of the neighborhood's story; verify current operating status before including it in your day's plans.
THE OCCASION · OLD-WORLD ROMAN CHARM OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Ar Galletto
A traditional restaurant on Campo de' Fiori. An easy option for enjoying Roman food while staying close to the energy of the piazza.
THE OCCASION · LUNCH NEAR THE MARKET OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Osteria da Fortunata
Handmade pasta and a lively atmosphere near Campo de' Fiori. A popular stop for a proper Roman pasta lunch.
THE OCCASION · A PASTA-FILLED AFTERNOON OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Antica Trattoria della Quercia
A traditional restaurant tucked into the streets near Piazza Navona. An atmospheric option for sitting down to a long, unhurried meal.
THE OCCASION · A ROMANTIC ROMAN DINNER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Ditirambo
An intimate restaurant near Campo de' Fiori with an inviting atmosphere. A lovely option when the afternoon turns into an evening out.
THE OCCASION · DINNER AFTER A LONG WANDER OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Forno Campo de' Fiori
A beloved bakery known for pizza bianca and pizza rossa. Ideal for a quick bite while wandering the market and nearby streets.
THE OCCASION · PIZZA BETWEEN PIAZZAS OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Cul de Sac
A longstanding wine bar just off Piazza Navona. A perfect place to settle in with Italian wine and something delicious to nibble on.
THE OCCASION · ONE MORE GLASS OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Il Goccetto
A charming wine bar with beautiful old-world character. Perfect for an early evening glass and a little break from sightseeing.
THE OCCASION · THE PERFECT APERITIVO OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Jerry Thomas Speakeasy
A celebrated Roman cocktail destination for a more special evening out. Check current reservations and entry requirements before visiting.
THE OCCASION · A ROMAN NIGHT OUT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Campo de' Fiori Market
A lively market square with produce, flowers, spices and souvenir stalls. Visit earlier in the day to experience the market atmosphere.
THE OCCASION · A BEAUTIFUL MARKET MORNING OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Piazza Navona
One of Rome's most beautiful public squares, famous for its fountains and magnificent architecture. Take a moment to appreciate Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers.
THE OCCASION · A CLASSIC ROMAN MOMENT OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Via dei Coronari
One of the loveliest streets in this part of Rome, with beautiful buildings, small shops and endless opportunities to stop for photographs.
THE OCCASION · THE SCENIC ROUTE OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Arco degli Acetari
A picturesque little courtyard just off the busy streets near Campo de' Fiori. A reminder that Rome's quietest corners can be just steps from its busiest piazzas.
THE OCCASION · A LITTLE SECRET DETOUR OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗Via del Governo Vecchio
A beautiful street filled with boutiques, vintage shops and places to eat and drink. A wonderful way to connect your afternoon wander.
THE OCCASION · SHOPPING WITHOUT A PLAN OPEN IN GOOGLE MAPS ↗This chapter includes Brittany's original Rome restaurant notes and additional curated stops. Several recommendations also appear in the Centro Storico chapter because these areas overlap. Confirm current opening hours, reservations and venue status before visiting.
La Dolce Vita.
A beautiful, walkable day built around the simple pleasures: coffee, markets, pasta, gelato and a glass of wine.
Coffee & the Market
Begin at Barnum, then wander through Campo de' Fiori Market while the stalls are open.
Find Arco degli Acetari
Step away from the piazza and discover one of the neighborhood's loveliest hidden courtyards.
A Proper Roman Lunch
Choose Osteria da Fortunata, Ditirambo or Antica Trattoria della Quercia. Book ahead when possible.
Piazza Navona & Via dei Coronari
Admire the fountains, wander the beautiful streets and stop for gelato at Frigidarium.
Stay for Aperitivo
Finish at Cul de Sac or Il Goccetto for a glass of wine. The afternoon is officially yours.
Roman Afternoon Rituals.
Because the best memories rarely require an admission ticket.
Buy the Flowers
Browse the flower stalls at Campo de' Fiori. Sometimes the simplest souvenirs are the best.
Order Dessert First
Gelato before dinner? You're in Italy. Absolutely nobody is stopping you.
Find a Piazza
Sit somewhere beautiful. Put your phone away. Watch the city move around you.
Have One More Glass
A little aperitivo, a little conversation, and absolutely no need to rush.
Make Room for the Magic.
I think one of the biggest mistakes we make when traveling is believing we have to fill every single minute.
But some of my favorite moments in Italy have been the ones that weren't planned.
A beautiful street. A conversation over a glass of wine. A restaurant I stumbled into simply because I liked the way it looked.
That's the Rome I want you to find. Not just the one in the photographs, but the one you actually get to feel.
With love, Brittany ♡Roman Rituals & Little Luxuries.
Because the best parts of Rome aren't always on the itinerary.
Rome is full of extraordinary things. Ancient ruins, magnificent churches, beautiful fountains and some of the best pasta you'll ever eat.
But there's another side of Rome that I hope you discover. The little rituals. The everyday pleasures. The moments that make you feel like you're actually living in the city, even if it's only for a few days.
FONTANA DI TREVI · ROMA
Make a Wish.
There are a lot of things you're supposed to do when you visit Rome. But this one? This one is non-negotiable.
Head to the Trevi Fountain, take a coin in your right hand, turn your back to the water and toss it over your left shoulder.
And because I believe in a little magic, we're making three wishes.
One Coin
For a little good luck.
Two Coins
To find your way back to Rome.
Three Coins
To get married. Obviously. ♡
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK NOTE: The better-known legend says one coin means a return to Rome, two mean romance, and three mean marriage. This is the Brittany in Wanderland version, because I happen to think good luck deserves a coin too.
FIND THE TREVI FOUNTAIN ↗Live a Little Like a Roman.
Six simple ways to experience the city beyond its famous landmarks.
Stand at the Coffee Bar
Start your day with an espresso or cappuccino at the counter. Have a cornetto, watch the neighborhood wake up, and resist the urge to check your phone immediately.
THE LITTLE LUXURY · A SLOW STARTTake the Scenic Route
Walk down the street that looks interesting, even if it's not the fastest way. Rome is particularly good at rewarding a little curiosity.
THE LITTLE LUXURY · GETTING LOSTHave Gelato Before Dinner
You are in Italy. You do not need to justify dessert. Find a good gelateria, choose whatever flavor sounds delicious, and enjoy it.
THE LITTLE LUXURY · DESSERT FIRSTMake Time for Aperitivo
Find a lovely wine bar, order a spritz or a glass of Italian wine, and enjoy a little something to nibble on. You have nowhere more important to be.
THE LITTLE LUXURY · ONE MORE GLASSTake a Passeggiata
The Italian evening stroll is one of my favorite traditions. After dinner, wander through the streets, admire the architecture, and watch the piazzas come alive.
THE LITTLE LUXURY · NO DESTINATIONBring Home a Story
Buy something small from a local shop. Write down the name of the restaurant you loved. Remember the conversation, the view, the unexpected little moment.
THE LITTLE LUXURY · SOMETHING TO KEEPThe Little Luxuries.
Not everything wonderful needs to be expensive. Sometimes luxury is simply giving yourself permission to enjoy where you are.
Order the pasta you actually want, not the one you think you should order.
Sit at an outdoor café for longer than you planned.
Buy yourself flowers at Campo de' Fiori.
Go back to a neighborhood you loved, even if it means missing something new.
Watch the sunset without trying to photograph every second.
Make a reservation for one really wonderful dinner.
A Few Things Worth Knowing.
The practical little details that make your Roman days a little easier.
Wear Comfortable Shoes
Rome's cobblestones are beautiful, but they're not especially forgiving. Comfortable walking shoes are a very good idea.
Refill Your Bottle
Rome has public drinking fountains called nasoni. Bring a reusable bottle and refill it where the water is marked safe to drink.
Dress for the Occasion
Many churches require modest clothing. Keep your shoulders and knees covered when visiting religious sites.
Reserve the Important Meals
Some of Rome's most popular restaurants fill up quickly. Book the meals you really care about, and leave room for spontaneity.
Know the Counter Culture
Drinking coffee at the bar is a classic Italian experience. Table service can cost more, especially in tourist areas.
Respect the Trevi Rules
Follow current access instructions and designated coin-tossing areas. Never enter the fountain or climb onto its structures.
Before You Leave Rome...
A few little moments worth making time for. Check them off as you go.
0 OF 8 ROMAN RITUALS COMPLETE
Rome Will Wait for You.
I hope you fall in love with Rome. Not just with the famous places, but with the ordinary little moments in between.
I hope you find a restaurant you never want to leave, a street you wish you lived on, and at least one moment when you stop and think, I can't believe this is my life.
And if you don't see everything? That's okay.
You already threw those coins into the Trevi Fountain.
You'll be back.
With love, Brittany ♡